We spent the day in Bruges. A 30 minute train ride from Ghent. Of course, the tram from our apartment to the train station took another 30 minutes.
If you are into medieval towns or if you saw the movie “In Bruges” and now think Bruges is a romantic and exciting place to be, join the crowds. In addition to us tourists, there were throngs of school kids who’d been sent off on some kind of scavenger hunt. Lucky for us, we made our way to the very outskirts of the town to visit the Kantcentrum (the Lace Center). Only a few dare venture so far.
That’s right. Lace. Bruges is the hub for handmade lace. In Bruges, the technique is primarily bobbin lacemaking. This is different from tatting, which is a needle based technique. Bobbin lacemaking involves complex braiding (20 or more strands) and twisting thread. At the Lace center, there is a shop where lacemakers can buy supplies – all manner of bobbins and threads. Also, a museum, with displays of ancient lace and videos demonstrating various patterns. Lacemaking was an economic necessity in some families. If you were a woman and poor, you’d better learn the craft. Not a great living but better than nothing.
One animated video told the legend of a young woman, Serina, and her beau, Armaund. Things were bad for Serina. She had to care for her sick mother and her young brother and sister, toil in the fields, work her fingers to the bone. One day, Serina and Armaund were walking in the forest when a large, intricate spider web fell on them. The young couple were determined to reproduce the web. Armaund carved small sticks to wind thread on while Serina spun fine threads from sheep’s wool. Magically, Serina braided and twisted the threads into delicate web-like lace. To her astonishment, wealthy women traveled miles to buy her lace. Everyone lived happily ever after. Isn’t that sweet?
