Post by Ella
Yuasa to Hidaka
Hike #2 went considerably better than Hike #1. No rain for starters. The ascent was paved (gravel in concrete) and not slippery even though we’d had a drenching storm the night before. Howling wind, rumbling thunder, flashing lightning. So all was wet but no mossy rocks to slide on.
The ascent was 300 meters over 3 km. I know someone will calculate the grade. Thigh-burning steep. Some cursing may have been involved. The descent was the same 300 meters but spread over almost 5 km. A steady downhill with only a few places where it was uncomfortably steep. However, not paved. Instead it was partially dirt, gravel, wet leaves, and part ancient cobblestone. Japanese cobblestone are flat rocks, smaller but similar to what we call flag stone. At the top, we scouted out some sturdy sticks for make-do hiking poles making the descent a little easier.
You go up, you go down. No gentle walking along ridges at the top.
Bathrooms awaited at the bottom complete with small frogs.
The hike was done but not the walking. We continued along narrow roads through residential neighborhoods. We were encouraged to stop at the Yamashita residence for light refreshments a chat with a local woman (mostly thru Google translate). We apologized for our cruel hearted idiot of a president. She told us that another American had been through a couple days ago and said the exact same thing. She also said, with a sad look, that it was the same with their current prime minister. Politely put she said he was “losing popularity “.
She offered us iced Japanese tea (served from a beautiful teapot) and some sweet snacks. We admired her home and garden and a shrine she’d build dedicated to the Girl’s Festival which would be on April 3.
Then it was time to head to the next, a workshop which produced black bamboo, owned by her husband. Having noticed Grubb’s difficulty walking (a whole other tale), she offered to drive us saving us the 20 minute walk (call it 40 in Grubb time). Ride gratefully accepted by Grubb.
It is my understanding that these trails were walked as meditation practices. Each step is of such awareness that the mind becomes single pointed. One becomes truly present. A difficult practice when the mind is distracted by wandering thoughts. Hiking these forest trails requires one to pay attention each step of the way. Slow down, have patience, breathe.
That would be the Buddhist approach and can be a part of the journey if you want it to be. Japan’s spiritual history is an intertwining of Shinto and Buddhism. Shinto does not generally incorporate meditative practices like Buddhism. Shinto is more directed at connection with Earth. Features of the landscape like mountains, stream, caves, waterfalls are seen to be embodiments of the deities. The.energy of the Earth is sacred. A pilgrimage not only gets you to the most revered shrines, but the journey itself encourages a deep connection with the earth.
One thing is for sure, daydreaming and wandering thoughts can be fatal. As we’ve found, one must pay close attention to every root and rock and also be determined to overcome fatigue and keep the body moving.