The art of bathing

Post by Ella

We are staying at the Fujiya Mae Ryokan, a traditional Japanese hotel in the town of Kawayu Onsen. Grubb is busy working on a post about our final hike yesterday.

Onsen indicates hot springs. You can get a scoop at the front desk, walk down to the river, dig yourself a little bathing area and soak in the hot water that bubbles up. I watched a couple do that (nice view of the river from our room). We decided unanimously…nope. Too much work.

Fortunately, the ryokan has bathing rooms which require no digging. Onsen water is piped in. Yes, this is the Japanese communal bathing experience you’ve all heard about. The baths are gender segregated. Two areas available for men, two for women. One is “open air” and one not. I chose open air.

By the way, I’ve not seen any indication of how trans persons are viewed here when it comes to gender segregated baths.

There is a strict etiquette. You have to be squeaky clean before getting in. You go in nude, no fabric to contaminate the water. Tattoos are forbidden. Tattoos = Yakuza, the evil crime syndicate. If you have tattoos, you will need to find a tattoo friendly Onsen. There aren’t many.

I took the two provided towels, a small bath towel for drying off and a smaller white towel to scrub off every speak of dirt and sweat. I also took the provided yakuta for afterwards.  Grubb was hesitant and almost stayed behind to take a shower in our room but he got up the gumption. 

We found our respective bathing areas. I entered the women’s room. Shoes, slippers are left in a small entry area and then into the large dressing area you go. There were wooden shelves filled with cloth lined baskets and a sink area with supplies for before (make up removal) and after (lotions, hairdryer). Behind sliding doors was the bath .

I undressed, leaving my clothes, yukata and drying off towel in a basket. I had the place to myself. I entered the bath area. A tiled space with rocks lining the edges of the large tile floored bath. A rock waterfall took up  one corner where the steamy hot onsen water was piped in. There was no front wall (thus “open air”). Instead, a bamboo screen high enough to maintain privacy from the outside.

But before slipping into the water…you have to be sparkling clean. There were six what I’ll call washing stations. Each had a low stool to sit on, a bucket, a handheld shower head, shampoo, conditioner and soap. Scrub-a-dub-dub using the smaller towel. If I had long hair I would somehow have to tie it up. Head hair not allowed to touch the Onsen water. You might have hair product or perhaps unrinsed conditioner…who knows. The Onsen water must remain pure.

Finally, ready for prime time bathing, I folded the scrubbing towel and placed it on my head (this towel should never touch the Onsen water) and slid in the comfortably hot water. I glided over to the waterfall corner for extra warmth, placed my towel on a rock and big big big sigh.

Onsen water is thought to have healing properties. It didn’t bring my youth back but I sure felt as good as a 74 year old who has just spent four days challenging her body on rugged trails can.