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The span of the clan

Posted on April 7, 2025April 7, 2025 by Grubb

The Shimazu-shi were the daimyo, or feudal lords, of Satsuma (Kagoshima), Ōsumi, and Hyūga provinces in Japan from the 13th century until the mid-19th.  In other words, the Shimazu family were landholding magnates for around 500 years.  The span of this clan makes European dynasties look like brief historical blips.

The feudal narrative of the Shimazu clan was on display behind glass in the Shoka-Shuseikan Museum in Sengan-en.  There was the necessary protection from the Shogun’s samurai.

Not exactly camouflage

There were alliances with clans (Toyotomi) to battle the predominance of other clans (Tokugawa).  Battles were won and lost.  The fighting was inscribed on placemat-size paper in the same miniature style that I saw in the Osaka castle museum. 

So where did the Shimazu family live while they ruled their domain?  Since their house is now a Historical Heritage site, we went to the seaside community of Sengan-en a couple of train stops north of Kagoshima to find out.  I wasn’t expecting the ostentation of San Simeon, or Mara Lago, but I was still struck by the simple unobtrusive beauty of the Shimazu house surrounded by its terraced gardens.

Shimazu house

It was well hidden up the hill behind the rows of gift shops. 

A span of gift shops

The interior was uncluttered and spare built around a zen garden with a fountain feeding a pond.

Enclosed pond

Horses had their own shrine.

Enshrined

And the lord of the manor, where did he sleep?  Where else?  On the floor.

Sleeping arrangements for a lord

In the 19th century a western influence added a couple pieces of furniture.

The Western touch

For this boorish visitor the whole spread looked like one big tea house.

The big tea house

But it was that Shinto thing, that melding with the environment making sure wherever you looked outside there was natural beauty.  

Bridge over still waters

And some stone sculpture like the big turtle on the grounds overlooking the sea below the volcano.

Stone turtle

While we were crossing a stone bridge in the g/ardens, the volcano put on a show.

Spouting off

The highlight of our Shimazu stroll was coming across the cat shrine.

6 thoughts on “The span of the clan”

  1. John says:
    April 7, 2025 at 8:18 am

    Facinating!

    Reply
  2. B Sitkin says:
    April 7, 2025 at 9:38 am

    Not to quibble but half a century is 50 years. Did you mean half a millennium?

    Reply
    1. Ella says:
      April 7, 2025 at 11:21 am

      Yep. But hey, just a few centuries off.

      Reply
    2. Grubb says:
      April 7, 2025 at 4:42 pm

      Hey, I thought we corrected that! (Half a century rolled off the tongue easier than half a millennium.))

      Reply
  3. Henry Shapiro says:
    April 7, 2025 at 1:31 pm

    I’m amazed at how much Japanese history and culture (religion) you two seem to know. Did you read up before going? Are your posts summaries of guidebook information? Gotten from signage at the exhibits?

    Very interesting no matter where or how you learned it.

    Reply
    1. Grubb says:
      April 7, 2025 at 4:48 pm

      I read a book on Japanese history before we came. It was a thick book and I only sketchily retained the information. Now whenever we visit a site I fill in the gaps and the Japanese narrative becomes clearer.

      Reply

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