Post by Ella.
Agustín, a shampoo boy and self made guide by day, rock musician by night, led us on a 2 hour walking tour of the center of Mendoza. We were his only customers on this tour.
My brain exploded with Argentine history and political doings. More on that to come. Grubb will expound, I’m sure. Suffice it to say, we both will have to rethink our pre-conceived notions.
A 7.5 earthquake leveled Mendoza in 1861 leaving almost nothing intact. This area is earthquake prone and all new construction adheres to earthquake standards. There are few high rises (30 stories is the highest) because of the expense of building. So far, I’ve felt no tremors in our 20 story building. But hey, I’m a Valley girl. What’s a little tremor or two?
The city was redesigned from the ground up after the earthquake of 1861. Except for the acequias, a canal-like irrigation system built by the Huarpes (and, it is supposed, with some help from the Incas). Later, Spanish settlers from Chile expanded the system. The Huarpes diverted water from the River Mendoza, fed by snowmelt from the Andes, with narrow canals that run along every street. This explains the shady, tree-lined roads in a desert city. Residents will often lower buckets into a canal and use the water for their own gardens.
Be careful after dark. There is nothing to prevent you from stumbling and falling into one of the canals. No barriers or flashing danger signs. No fence or curbs.
In its redesign, Mendoza city engineers took the liberty of engineering wide veredas (sidewalks) giving the place a more relaxed feel because you aren’t being jostled by other pedestrians at every step. And when it rains (rarely, just 8 inches a year), you don’t have to do the dance of the umbrellas as you sashay down the street.
The center of town is cleverly dominated by 5 plazas which were designed to be safe spaces during earthquakes. This is where Agustín centered our route. Each plaza an opportunity to talk about Argentina’s geo-political past and present.
1. San Martin, a tribute to national hero
2. Chile, sparse with plenty of room to relax
3. Italia, featuring Dante’s “Inferno”
4. Espana, a mini Alhambra, tiles supplied by Spain
5. Indepencia, the center.
And at the end of the day, who could resist a gin & tonic with”black malaria red berry”.
Much more to come. But now, I’ve got to get ready for our excursion to the vineyards.
It’s been a long time since I’ve had a gin and tonic. That one looks good.
Delicious. A little fruity and light.