Post by Grubb.
Today (Saturday) our walking tour of historic Montevideo took us to the underground mausoleum in Plaza Independencia where the large urn holding José Gervasio Artigas ashes are guarded by two soldiers.
Artigas is the Uruguayan George Washington. He assembled the states that formed Uruguay and declared independence from Spain. As far as mausoleums go, his has an otherworldly gloom to it. Part of this cold and creepy ambience has to do with the dark presence of the two guards. Part of it has to do with the size of the urn. Ashes of a mastodon perhaps, but a person?
Jorge, who was our guide today, explained how Uruguayans define themselves by how they’re different from Argentinians. Both countries have a gaucho tradition and a big meat platter diet; both are xenophobic about soccer; both had to liberate themselves from Spanish domination. So why isn’t Uruguay part of Argentina? Or Brazil, for that matter? Because, apparently, without Uruguay, Brazil and Argentina would constantly be at war. So Uruguay was created as a buffer state.
But walking the streets of this city, outside of refined differences in cuisine and stability of currency, I could be in Argentina. There are the Native, Spanish, and Italian influences. Neither had the large slave trade Brazil had. Uruguay might be more progressive on social issues, but Argentina isn’t exactly hidebound.
Uruguayans say they invented the tango in Montevideo. Argentinians say they invented it in Buenos Aires. It’s no big deal. The only thing that matters is who will beat the other the next time they play for the World Cup.
