Yesterday morning was devoted to seeing the Osaka Castle and the National Art Museum. The castle, known for its eight story pagoda-style toshu, or castle keep, covers 15-acres with a river-size moat circling an enormous outer wall, and a smaller moat outside the inner wall. Built in the 16th century by the Toyotami clan, it was…
Bowing deer, big Buddha
Took a day trip to Nara yesterday to see the fabled bowing deer. They roam at will in a park that encloses shrines and temples and have an unusual reputation for bowing back if you bow to them first. According to the guide books, this imitative behavior has evolved over the centuries. I bowed a number of…
Riding the trains
Post by Ella Japan Railways (JR) is a mega corporation that runs the majority of train lines in Japan. There are branches: JR East, JR West, JR Hokkaido to name a few. Each has its own website and there is no unifying theme for the look and feel of the interface. There are also many smaller…
When the earth moves
Post by Ella Weather and geologic stuff happen all the time here. There is an app for that. Safety Tips gives you the latest info about earthquakes, tsunamis, cyclones and volcanic eruptions. Earthquakes especially are common here and all new buildings (1990s I think and later) are superbly engineered for earthquake resilience. If you allow…
47. Good Fortune
Post by Ella Yesterday, a day trip to Nara, home to a famous deer park and several temples, shrines and gardens. At Kohfukuji, a temple that originated in 630, I paid my 200 Yen and received Good Fortune #47. Nothing goes the way you would like at first, but if you work hard perseveringly, you will…
Full on Osaka
Post by Ella Time to join the city crowds. See some sights. Yesterday we headed towards the highly touted Dotonbori area. Might have a resemblance to Times Square. Dotonbori Shopping. Long rows of covered arcades filled with vendors. What are you looking for? All flavors of Kit Kats? capsule toys? shoes?UniQlo clothing? Ferris wheels, animatronic…
Dōtombori Day
We strolled the Dōtombori neighborhood yesterday. Divided by a canal, It’s a very commercial part of town, and to say that in Osaka means we encountered block after block of outrageous signage. The first stop after surfacing from the metro was to join Japanese families posing in front of the Glico Running Man sign. It’s apparently the…
Deserted, or just quiet?
A couple of the Wakayama port towns we’ve walked through in the last week, Yuasa and Kii-Katsuura, have been remarkable for their stillness. As towns go, they’re purported to be functioning. Yuasa is famous for the discovery and manufacture of soy sauce; Kii-Katsuura for its tuna fishing. But when we wandered the streets, nothing was observably going on. Yuasa…
Bahaha juice
Post by Ella Yesterday we had a few hours to kill in Kii-Katsuura waiting for our train to Osaka. A very small town but an important tuna fishing port. We wandered, were stopped by friendly locals to see if we needed help (we may have looked a bit bedraggled). One pulled up beside us and…
By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea
Post by Ella A big day. It’s April 1 here. Grubb’s 75th birthday and our anniversary (16 years married, together 20). Can we give the old arthritic man a congratulations for accomplishing the Kumano Kodo? Hotel Urashima, the most famous resort in western Japan. Situated on the Pacific with the waves crashing practically at the…
Shrine hopping
This morning, while we were waiting for the bus that would take us to Shingū, the first of our shrine stops, Marty, a tall, affable American who had just finished the Kumano Kodo with his wife, asked us if we were going to “the falls’. He was referring to the Nachi Falls near the Nachi Grand…
In the no hike zone
Post by Ella Grubb grabbed my title “shrine hopping” but that’s what the day entailed. No climbing treacherous mountainsides, no slip sliding, no cursing because the up kept on going. We left that all behind. Today was bus, shrine, train, bus, shrine, temple, sacred waterfall, bus, boat. Topped off by a soak in an Onsen…
Complicated and simple
Post by Ella How to ride a bus in Japan. We’ve successfully decoded the procedure for riding a bus now having taken about a dozen rides. One enters from the rear door and grabs a numbered ticket from a little dispenser. The number on the ticket represents where you got on the bus. If the…
Bound for the buckwheat pillow
We finished the last length of our Kumano Kodo Kii hike on Sunday. Leaving Chikatsuyu, I waved goodbye to the farmer stacking straw along with the applauding puppets on the side of the road across from the bus station. It took two bus rides to get us halfway up the Kii mountain where we got off…
The art of bathing
Post by Ella We are staying at the Fujiya Mae Ryokan, a traditional Japanese hotel in the town of Kawayu Onsen. Grubb is busy working on a post about our final hike yesterday. Onsen indicates hot springs. You can get a scoop at the front desk, walk down to the river, dig yourself a little…