I’ve always been fascinated with the tiny Japanese sculpture they call Netsuke. Carved out of a single piece of wood or stone, they have a unique rounded shape and are small enough to fit in one’s hand. Today we went to the Kyoto Seishu Netsuke Art Museum. At 5000, it has the largest collection of netsuke…
Month: April 2025
Gion gathering
Before we went to see Miyako Odori yesterday, we soldiered up Hanamikoji Street towards the large Yasaka Shrine. Hanamikoji Street is the main drag through Gion, Kyoto’s historic geisha district. Its long covered walk and hanging paper lanterns advertise shop after shop. Foreign fascination with geishas means it is the most visited spot in Kyoto. Doing the bump and…
“Caterpillar left!”
We felt a bit of a culture shock watching Miyako Odori. The mimed story (with chorus narration) was universal. (Fisherman nets a ghostly spirit who leaves him with a child he presents to an emperor. The child grows to fight an enemy and both die. Behind this tale the stage design goes from spring to spring.) But the twanging whine…
Miyako Odori
For something new and different, we attended the Miyako Odori yesterday at the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo (theater) in the famous Gion district of Kyoto. The Miyako Odori is a performance, maybe one could call dance, or maybe stylized choreographed movements. A traditional spring occurrence, specifically April, every year since 1872. The very first performance was…
More advice for the tourist
Did I mention Kyoto Prefecture (kind of like a state) gets 75 million visitors a year and 50 million of those come to the city of Kyoto.
Do’s and don’ts but mostly don’ts
Lots of reminders about the rules.
Akagaki Genzo
When we left the Zenran-ji Temple we stopped for coffee and cake (Ella will describe). Then we walked through neighborhoods of more upscale houses towards the center of town. We passed a zoo. Stopped for a crab roll at a market. After about forty-minutes we ended up at the Museum of Kyoto. The museum had exhibits explaining the…
Signs in the neighborhood
I am fascinated by the Japanese love of cartoon representations rather than boring old stick figures. That last photo brings up another subject. Japanese cleanliness and fastidiousness. Every car shines like new. No dents or dings. No side view mirrors duct taped on or cardboard-taped broken windows. In museums, if one touches a glass case,…
Coffee and cake
After exploring Eikan-do temple yesterday we needed refreshment. I mean I just had my whole concept of the structure of Buddhism exploded (sure, sure…maybe I’m being a little dramatic). Just outside the entrance to the temple was a place advertising coffee. You know who (and it wasn’t me) made a beeline. On the menu was…
The looking-back Buddha
There are hundreds of temples and shrines in Kyoto, its hard to chose which to visit. I had stumbled across a website called preparetravelplans.com with an article “10 Hidden Gems in Kyoto” which is how we found the Kimono Forest the other day. Of course, the skeptics among you will be rolling your eyes and thinking “hey,…
Umeshu and other Japanese refreshments
Friends of ours (Charlie and Wynette) now on their 13th or 14th year of walking the Caminos in Spain and Portugal, were offered umeshu at a Spanish bar the other day. (Kanpai you two). I’ve recently developed a taste for umeshu here in Japan so I thought I’d say more about it. Umeshu has been…
Sticking with the white stripe
In most of the countries we’ve traveled to on Easter, places have been closed. Here in Japan that certainly wasn’t going to be a concern. But in keeping with a spirit of religious observance we elected to make a morning visit to the Eikan-dō Temple. An early local bus took us to the foothills of Higashiyama, Kyoto’s eastern…
Quiet tea, crowded bamboo
Ella’s talked about the tea house in the Lion’s Roar Garden, but what she didn’t mention was the little “traditional Japanese sweet” that, when we were staying in Sparky’s Place back in Naoshima, I confused with a bar of soap that had the same shape and color. On our way out the door to tour the…
Tranquility and tea
Designed by Sakugen Shuryo, a Zen master, poet and diplomat in the 1500’s, the Lion’s Roar gardens of the Zen Buddhist Hogon-in temple is breathtaking. Using the principle of “borrowed scenery”, this garden folds itself into the surrounding forest using Mt. Arashiyama as a backdrop. if ever there was a place to let zen into…
Kimono grove surrounded by forest of rentals
Arashiyama is an area just west of Kyoto city. Arashiyama means “the storm mountain” and comes from the wind known as “Atago Oroshi,” which sweeps down Mt. Atago and blows away all the cherry blossoms and maple leaves at the end of their seasons. Nature’s air blower using wind power. From our place, a city bus…