Over the quiet first months of the pandemic, when gyms were shut down and I began taking long rambling walks, I grew to enjoy listening to podcasts. Freakonomics is one of my regulars and not long ago, there was a fascinating three part series on the whaling industry. From the beginnings in Nantucket, the sociology…
Apologies to Moby
Post by Grubb. Saturday morning it was raining when we hit New Bedford. At one time, this Massachusetts shipping town was the center of the American whaling industry. Now it just sticks with fish. Downtown by the docks the cobblestone streets were slippery, the weathered brick buildings damp and dripping, giving the area a 19th…
Mom’s world
Yesterday we rode from the lush green flats of the Cape to the verdant green rolling hills of Connecticut…yes, it’s all green, all the time here. Except when the leaves turn colors, which is beginning. First up, more cousins. Both my mom and dad had lots of siblings, therefore, lots of cousins. Sharen and Tom…
Farewell to vanishing in Cape Cod
Post by Grubb. If you imagine the birds eye view of Cape Cod as an arm bent at the elbow with South Beach at the bottom and Provincetown inside the curved fingers of the fist at the top, it looks like the long thin islet could easily disappear under the swell of a tsunami. But…
Thank you Marc and Judi
What a great way to see another side of the Cape. We enjoyed wonderful hospitality, expeditions to the Atlantic, got a flavor of the history, including the Native American cultures, not to mention the all-you-can eat lobster dinner. Marc and I are second cousins: our fathers, Irwin and Joe, are first cousins. I got to…
Provincetown parade
Post by Grubb. Friday, after taking a walk along the National Seashore, Marc and Judi took us to Provincetown for an afternoon ramble. A bayside Greenwich Village, since the 1920s P-town has been famous for being a summertime bohemian hangout. I expected rundown cabanas and a restored Provincetown Playhouse. The cabanas have morphed into upscale…
Salt marshes
And just like that, the first week of our travels is in the bag. We flew in just missing Hurricane Lee, or rather Hurricane Lee just missed the Cape, and today we rode the edge of Tropical Storm Ophelia as we made our way to Connecticut. Meanwhile, yesterday was another beautiful day on the Cape….
Lobster dining
I am still feeling the effects. Yow! A fabulous dinner of boiled lobster. Grubb and I were tutored in the finer points of lobster dismantling by Helen and Irwin. Scooping out the body meat, prying off the claws and floaters and fishing out the thin strips with a lobster fork,dropping the bits and chunks into…
Season of the sharks
Post by Grubb. The last time we enjoyed an extensive visit with Marc and Judi was when we were in Oaxaca during the Christmas holidays in 2018. That was when Marc, bent on introducing Ella to the world of mescal, gave us the rambling go-for-the-worm dark doorway bar tour that prepared us for joining the…
The Final Hour
On a frigid winter’s day during a powerful nor easter in 1952, an oil tanker, the Pendleton, snapped in two 10 miles off the coast of Chatham. They didn’t manage to issue an SOS, but a couple hours later, the two pieces of the tanker were picked up on radar. The Coast Guard launched a…
Into the sunset
From Barry and Deirdre’s home in West Barnstable (north side of the Mid Cape) we moved 25 minutes east to Marc and Judi’s in Harwich, on the south side of the Lower Cape. First order of business (okay, after a gin and tonic and a lovely dinner), was an expedition to Paine’s Creek Beach to…
Thank you Barry and Deirdre
What a wonderful start to our journey. Thank you to our wonderful hosts, Barry and Deirdre, for putting up with us for four days, for beginning our orientation to the Cape and to New England, for fun, educational, stimulating conversation, maps and recommendations, and for our first ever lobster roll. Barry and I are first…
Boardwalk, lobster, and cranberries
Post by Grubb. Barry and Deidre took us on marsh walk along a narrow pier that looked above sinuous water carved reedy patches where crabs burrowed into the mud. Stepping on the donor-inscribed wooden slats towards the lookout at the end of the pier, I started to feel like I was in the opening sequence…
My favorite car dealer
Post by Grubb. Kurt Vonnegut—who else? In the late o 1950s when Kurt was living in Barnstable, he sold Saabs out of a stone garage. Fortunately, for those of us who are fans, the business never really took off. Cape Cod is known for its summer stock venues (Provincetown Playhouse the most renowned), and Dennis’s…
A last walk down Willow Street
I can’t get enough of the green.