Post by Ella. After a day outside in the 44° feels-like 39° weather (rain in the morning, a little sunshine breaking through in the afternoon), I think a gal needs her shot of aquavit. That’s how I started the meal at Arctandria Restaurant. Loitin Akevitt. Great caraway taste. For starters, we shared a plank of…
Arctic Cathedral in Five Takes
Post by Grubb. The accordion ripple of white concrete give this church the look of a collapsing iceberg that can be seen from miles around. My father’s church in Los Alamos was an A-frame like the Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø. Similar to the Arctic Cathedral, it also had stained glass windows above the altar that let…
What grows so high and cold?
Post by Ella. A trip to the Arctic Alpine Botanical gardens in Tromsø certainly gave us a clue. Cultivated from seed from arctic and alpine regions all over the world. A scenic public bus ride carried us from the Arctic University Museum to the gardens. Which are free of charge, just walk in and stroll…
Our route, Monday, May 29
A big circle. The scenic route. Forget tour busses. The public busses are great. First to the Arctic University Museum for a little science and culture Then to the Arctic Alpine Botanical gardens for some flora And how about a little religion at the Arctic Cathedral? Topped off by dinner at Arctandria restaurant for sea…
There’s always one
Post by Grubb. First we went to the Contemporary Art Museum. It was closed. So we stood in the rain and watched seagulls roost in art created for their hanging out. Ella stepped out of the rain to momentarily roost in an A-frame. Then we crossed the street to see a number of contemporary art installations from…
The daily food report
Post by Ella. I’ll bet you’ve been missing this 🤪. The food on the ferry was not bad but nothing to write home about, except the breakfast buffets. They had everything you could ever want. I had a nice little glass of lingonberry smoothie one morning. In Tromsø last night, we had dinner at Nyt (does…
Among giants
Post by Grubb. Just entering the Troll Museum gives you a clue. There are mountain trolls, and sea trolls, and forest trolls on display with their legends explained, and there is Yggdrasil, the mythological Nordic tree of life. But the real giants inside are Ibsen and Grieg. In a room where I put on earphones and…
One bedroom apartment conveniently located in the center of town.
Post by Ella. Address: Storgata 91. The fly in the ointment, no shades on the windows in the land of the midnight sun. But Grubb had a creative solution. We will put the cushions back where they belong before we leave. No one will ever know.
Heavenly Views atop Storsteinen
Post by Ella Today would be the highest temperature we would get during our three day stay in Tromsø. A high of 48°F and rain on and off all day. Seemed the perfect time for a ride on the Fjellheisen (cable car). Took a little head scratching to figure out the busses. Well, not the…
Our route, Sunday, May 28
Up to the cable car for a ride to the top of Fjellheisen Down to the depths at the Troll Museum Over to the Contemporary art gallery Lovely early dinner at Walter & Leonard
Transition to Tromsø
Another travel day but different. We docked in Tromsø at 14:15 but had to check out of our cabin at noon. We stashed our luggage in the luggage room, conveniently located on our deck. Spent a couple hours hangin’ on the observation deck, sipping cappuccinos, chatting with new friends. In truth, not much to say…
Our route, Saturday, May 27
We hit the Trollefjord around midnight last night and then continued towards Tromsø, winding through the waterways. Arrived Tromsø at 14:15, self checked into.our apartment, wandered around the town.
Galleri Espolin needs a mention as does the Viking house
I forgot to include information about the Gallery we stopped in on our brief tour of Lofoten. Galleri Espolin, dedicated to Kaare Espolin Johnson (1907 – 1994), an artist new to both of us. Kaare struggled with poor eye sight from a very young age and as a young man, lost the sight in one…
Music of the fjords
Post by Grubb At midnight our boat slowed to turn towards the narrow entrance of the Trollefjord. Sheer rain-slicked cliffs of dark slanted rock loomed larger and larger as they leaned in closer and closer. The Nordic bite of the breeze got colder and colder, and the sun, in its Norwegian golden hour, filled the…
Fjord of the trolls
Post by Ella. Stunning, mighty. The Trollefjord, a two kilometer long fjord is well known for its majestic nature. Only 60 meters wide at its narrowest, impossible for the super cruise liners but for our relatively small ferry with an experienced captain, yes indeed. Troll stories abound about this fjord. It was formed by the…